Wednesday, July 30, 2008
My Son Temples
This temple had one peculiar thing in that it had a statues to Shiva which were clearly phallic symbols of the male anatomy called "linga" and the female anatomy left a bit to the imagination but these were called "yonnie" Needless to say this caused quite a bit of wise cracking from the back packer component among us. Well I'm off to dinner now and tomorrow we go by bus to Hue.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Old Hoi An
In a moment we are going to pick up some business shirts Hugo has had made over here. The hotel has a shuttle bus as it is in a rice paddy on the banks of the river and its is so pretty here and peaceful so a nice way to relax and then commute the 4 km into town. Shopping is good and one can keep finding ways to lose your money!! Thats fun, but you do get mighty sick of being asked to buy stuff AAAALLLLL day long.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Ahoy from HoiAn
Sunday, July 27, 2008
How long to Halong
Halong Bay was absolutely stunning. We had perfect weather. Hot ofcourse, but no rain and clear skies and green flat seas. There are hundreds of islands which come straight out of the ocean and then they are covered with vegetation. It's so beautiful. We were the only locals on our boat because the backpackers and western tourists all stay at sea overnight. I could not stand it because those cabins are so small and stuffy and close. Then I saw a rat on the dock so the thought of spending a night with rodent stow aways and drinking backpackers... naaah... we opted for a day trip instead. We left our friendly backpackers to drink the night away (at mightily inflated prices) and let them try their hand at karaoke... can't be worse than the local singing... truly:) (There's a reason there are not too many "top ten" hits on the western top 40 from this neck of the woods.)
On the day boat we were mobbed by people wanting to know all the details of our lives and to have their photos taken with us. (they are mad I know) we had 3 of our family photos with us, so we showed them. Next thing they went flying around the boat with everyone 'ooing' and 'aaahing' about how tall the boys are. I think they thought we had photographed "Gulliver" when they saw the pics!! (sorry Brett and Jim). It was fun and created quite a comotion.
At night we went for a walk to find a nice little seafood place and enjoy some yummy fresh seafood. The meals are delicious and we have not been ill at all. (Hanoi is the cleanest of the large cities we have been in so far.) You can eat a lovely meal for around $3-6!! It was so nice to see all the locals enjoying family holidays where we were at Halong Bay. There are also many Chinese here as it's high season for locals to travel to Hanoi region (they must like it hot). It's a favourite holiday spot and they are all out shopping at the night market and just enjoying life. I find their extended family life quite enviable. They love to be together and just hang around chatting, snacking all day and night, playing cards and drinking together. They will have a game of chess or draughts or mah jong. It's easy to see why they would feel lonely in the west. They laugh and play with their children who seem to be awake all night!!
In the pool at the hotel I taught a little chinese boy to float and start to swim (his gran kept bowing and thanking me...) it was self-preservation actually, because he was floundering so much I could just see him drowning and needing to do CPR because gran was sure to nod off (as most locals seem to do that if they sit for more than 5 minutes). They have power napping down to an artform.
Tomorrow we are back on the plane and off to Danang and Hoi An. Enjoying it all lots :)
The scenery in Vietnam is more agricultural than Cambodia. Its so enjoyable to see them ploughing rice fields and tending crops and sellling their wares from the bus window that is wehn you can actually turn around to see becasue the locals love to close the curtains in the bus they have an aversion to sun. On the walk into the caves on one of the islands in Halong Bay the sea of umbrellas almost poked my eye out because I am just the right height to cop the points on all sides.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Hang On in Ha Noi
We did "Ho Chi Minh" mausoleum and surrounds today. The queue to see Uncle Ho snaked along for 500 metres. It took about 40 minutes to file past his embalmed body. He is venerated by the people as a hero of liberation from colonialism.
We alos visister the Temple of Literature which venerates Confucian scholars and people with doctorates. I wiped the turtles head (I was allowed seeing I had the qualification to do so!). Interesting to see how almost 1000 years ago Chinese mandarin scholars esteemed knowledge so much and the scripts with which they first wrote and passed on their wisdom.
Then we found our way back to our hotel in Ha Noi's "old quarter" narrow streets and alleyways and we got so lost. Each street starts with Hang. We 'live' on Hang Be, and then there is Hang Non and Hang Quat and Hang Gai not to be confused with Hang Gui just alongside Hang Quo and around the corner from Hang Lai... if you get my drift. You feel like saying "Who gives a Hang" but you have to find your way home!! Everyone see us as an old couple that clealrly cannot walk so they throg around us all day ask us for Cyclo, moto, or taxi rid for sir and madam, This gos on allllllllll day long. It's incessant and can actually drive you around the twist. Especially when they hang their baskets on you arms and demand you take a photo and then of course demand money and so the continual haranguing does get wearing. Most of the time I am Ok but occasionally you just want some peace when you are trying to work out 'where the hang you are' so you can walk home!
We could have spent longer here as it is actually quite interesting. For those who love shopping a meca with everything you can think of to buy. Tonight we will see the Vietnames water puppet show at 8.00pm so must go and wash the sweat off.
We are off to sail along the world heritage islands of Halong Bay tomorrow.
Well my fellow comrades (getting into the socialist speak here) till next time.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
can't get phots working
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
'Wat' Next
Yes it was amazing.These temples are a testimony to their great artisan ancestory of the Khmer empire. They are steeped in history and you really do feel like you are on an Indiana Jones film set. We have so many photos of temples we could bore you allf or a week! They are so large covering an area the size of Los Angeles I am told. We tuk tuk ed our way and felt some what smug when the zealous young back packers were dripping buckets of sweat on their push bikes.I am passed the stage of having to prove myself. I just know some of them were eyeing our tuk tuk off with envy!!
Any way it goodbye to Cambodia tomorrow and Good Morning Vietnam (off to Hanoi tomorrow).
I hope I can make this work in Vietnam because it was not working before in Saigon but will try. Sorry I have not worked out how to load photos yet I may try tomorrow before we go, if time permits.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
three day in ""Snooky
The first day we walked around the beach and braved the locals who are extremely pushy in their sales pitch about everything. Once again many people begging along the foreshore all landmine victims. That is hard to see and hard to handle its so undignified making the work that Marian Fromm is doing so much more important as that employment provides some dignity as well as independence.
Then we decided to go on a snorkelling trip to a coral island with a local company. The island was called Koh Lim Sum but I think the Lim Sum was because one almost lost 'some limbs'' getting on and off the boat! It was a 1.5 metre drop from the pier into the boat and then abit of boat hoping to get on the correct fishing boat. Think an old fishing boat (the kind boat people came to Australia on) it was an enjoyable 2 hours to the island for me, but several others including Hugo felt squeamish. I was surprised about that. Then we snorkelled around a lovely bay and saw lots of fish. Nothing to compare to Barrier Reef but the water was warm and it was sunny and most pleasant.
On the way back I thought we were going to meet the seabed as the swell was a gentle 2metre roll that required careful negotiation by "Papa"" our captain, who was a mere 69 years old!! He nodded off to sleep now and again but thankfully awoke each time we were about to take on too much water!! This old man must have seen so much change in this country. He smoked like a train, survived all the 1970s turmoil and was still smiling. That is resilience. He did a spot of handline fishing while we were snorkelling. I did not go out on th second snorkel because we were in an area that had strong undertow and I did not feel like washing up on Koh Samui in Thailand, so I just sat with Papa and watched him fish. An interesting day to say the least.
We were on an island which was largely unexplored and about 30 houses made up the village. Even out there they had a little store and a billiard table. I can't imagine how the boat we were on would get it there!! They are enterprising and find their way around obstacles the rest of us would say were impossible!!
The sad part about this day was that we found out in the morning when reading a newspaper that all these islands are being sold to foreign developers. The local people are just displaced. This is happening all over Cambodia. There is development everywhere foreign companies all buying up property fencing it off, in the hope of a boom times for this country and the making of large profits. Not bad when the policy is no foreign ownership, but its a land of '"who you know and connections will get you what you want. The poor just find themselves displaced. While they are asleep or at work their homes"are demolished, all their possessions taken away. Its a new colonialism, run from within by profiteers.
The Russians have already built a hotel on one very tiny island (no beaches) looking like something from a James Bond movie) and they charge people $3000/night! There must be some wealthy people in the USSR(probably the makers of Vodka). [I believe the russian mafia are still strongly networked throughout Cambodia, they probably meet there!]
Tomorrow we are off to Siem Reap. so till next time Lee Hai
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Vist to "Reverse the Curse"
Marian had a documentary team over from Australia who were doing a doc on landmines in Cambodia and she is working with them hoping to get more sponsorship from OS to grow the business. We spoke with her accountant, who lost his leg below the knee and almost was a double amputee after going fishing and standing in shallow water in a river just outside Pnomh Penh. It's diabolical how many people are still affected by the unexploded ordinances left over from US carpet bombing and their own Khmer Rouge planting plastic mines that cannot be picked up readily by metal detectors, making them hard to clear. Still between 500 and 1000 people lose limbs or their lives each year. They think it will be 20-30 more years before its considered relatively clear. Another worker lost his leg plowing in his own field! The message is don't stray from the path and look carefully at all times. The work this one Adelaide woman has achieved is phenomenal. She is an inspiration and turns 70 in 2 weeks!!
Tomorrow a.m. we leave by bus for the coast at Sihanoukville. So we will see if I can get the email/blog working from there. The 9 days in Phnomh Penh have been inspiring to meet so many amazing people both expats and locals. We have enjoyed it and are learning so much about many things.
Monday, July 14, 2008
Today we visited the Peace Bridges program and I was able to share the work we have done at RDNS. I will probably come back at some stage later and show them how to use the model we developed in Adelaide for families recovering from abuse and violence. This would be short term visits to do some capacity building work with NGO groups via the Peace Bridges program workers. They would train up local Khmai people to do the work with families and in villages.
We also went to Hagar Women's program where we were talking to Wilma a woman working here for 2 years at Hagar. She has come from Perth with her husband to work with the womens' programs and the handcraft factory. The building is typical of most here rather old open and sparse old wooden desks and plastic chairs many brittle and broken. Their building is in great need of paint and scrubbing clean and cheering up. They have hardly any decent play and school equipment for the 50 children living there. Boy the poverty and lack of simple goods is just pathetic.
She was telling us her key Khmai counsellor son had an accident yesterday and has serious head injuries. Four people die every day on the roads in Pnomh Penh alone 1,970 people last year in this city!! When you see how they drive its no wonder its unbelievable. I wish I could video it to show you all!.
Wilma said she stopped yesterday on her way home from church to get a man off the main road. He was sitting there with a toddler in his arm dressed in rags, the baby was wrapped in rags and lying limp in his arms. He had no money for food, clothes or hair cut... After begging him to come off the road and she would feed him she saw he also had only half a leg because it had been blown off by land mines. These peoples in the country are destitute and so desperate they will sit on the road and rather get run over because they have nothing to lose may be someone will stop and provide a meal. Pitiful stuff really.
We read that Amnesty International estimate around 100,000 Cambodians have been displaced by the rabid land grabbing going on here. Cost of houses and rents are on a par with Adelaide yet government workers get $40 pr month wages!! How do they get ahead that way with rising food and petrol and costs? Yet the rich are doing very well thank you... which is a shame. Its every man and woman for themselves since the Khmer Rouge has left because they have pitted brother against brother and so family trust has been destroyed. There are however many NGOs helping here. In fact they provide the entire welfare system which in itself produces problems, but people have to do something or there would be mass starvation. It's interesting and challenging to see how they can still bounce back and be positive and happy in the midst of all this. We are learning much from this experience. These are amazing people.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Well today we went to church in the International church at Pnomh Penh World Vision building. It was packed with people from 31 nations. Most peole workig here in some capacity many visitor from various schools and groups doing short term work. Afterwards we went to lunch with marion fromm wo runs Reverse the Curse a group that dry fruit and all the people working for her are land mine victims. We will go and see her work on Tuesday.
Its strange to be so far from family on my birthday but we are enjoying meeting so many dedicated people working in their special fields to help this country and its people get ahead. Capacity building is so needed here as education costs so much. In the rush of development )almost all Korean, Thai, Chinese, Japanese funded) the locals and the poor are left further and further behind and that breeds discontent and violence increases. The huge number of NGOs are almost propping up the social services it seems. The poor can never afford education and they cannot afford to let their kids go to school because they need them to get the money some how so they can feed the family because going to school is a luxury they cannot afford as it prevents them getting the days rice.
Well today was a quiet day and I am heading off for a swim to gt through the 37 degree heat!! I am discovering sweat glands in places that I never knew I had them- my scalp for one!!
Love to you all Anne & Hugo XX
Saturday, July 12, 2008
walk around Pnomh Penh and the Royal Palace
Visited the Royal Palace and then Wat Phnom Buddhist temple. I am struggling with all the begging but its been less intrusive than I first thought would happen. We stopped for some lunch and a drink at the infamous Foreign Correspondents Club where Dip Tran met the Journo of the 1976 Killing Field fame. It was so hot that I just wanted to get home and have a swim (Like Feb in Adelaide but humid as well!) Apparently April is the worst month here where even the locals go spare! July is bad enough for us! Anyway I am off for a swim. The locals on the building site sit on the roof and laugh when they see this white Baluga whale get in the water!! At least my girth is bringing someone some mirth!
Friday, July 11, 2008
Toul Sleng prison S21
Then we went out to Peace Builders in the afternoon. Barry feels there is some real merit in the work we have done at RDNS using participatory action methods to promote family health. I am going back with Hugo to do an in-service on Monday pm because they are interested in learning more about the transition model and capacity building possibilities of PAR to assist the poorest communities to help improve family health and reduce the very high levels of family violence. Once trust has been demolished as an integral aspect of relationships its affecting every aspect of life for these people. They were so interested in the work we have done at RDNS with CSA survivors and others that it may be that they will organise other NGO workers to understand the model to see how it can be implemented in their stratgic processes to build the capacity of commuities and families. That seems an exciting way to help from my perspective.
It's very hot and wet but we are well and enjoying the look around and having a crack at the language which is challenging to day the least! The poor are indeed very poor and the rising costs of city living fuel, food and shelter (with rents rising by >50% in one year) has seen many really struggle and consequently costs are sky rocketing for the everyone but the poor are always affected worse by such costs of living in the basic needs. Even the disabled still seem to try and sell travel copies of lonely planet to make ends meet as there are no social security few taxes and few services for them. It's so good to see them keep trying to maintain independence.
There is much to learn from these people about resilience and living a life of gratitude.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
visit to Hagar International
Then we met with Sue Taylor in charge of the childrens' program and she is a New Zealander. About my age. Her husband is in charge of the soya milk factory. Nestle donated a large factory with machinery and he is helping to get it under way. They are just back from Bangkok because they were the victims of a drive by bag snatching. When they pulled her bag her arm was through it and she went flying off the bike as did her husband. Sue received head injuries and shoulder reconstruction and her husband had fractured ribs and clavicle.She is ok but it was a big scare. It happened in broad daylight coming back from church!
They are very busy trying to get it operational so the factory can employ more women and men gainfully so they work their way through with support and learn skills for 2 years and then they can find jobs or set up own business enterprise. Its an effective model. The beneficiaries are inspired to work hard because they can see a way upward and out of their poverty. Hagar actively build their capacity and they have coussnelling support to build their confidence and work through past abuse and trauma. They have many women who have been raped and as we were their the childrens worker was called out to retrieve a woman and baby who had acid thrown over them and were badly burnt. Family violence is a legacy of the trauma of the past .Tomorrow we will see what the Peace bridges program is doing as they are capacity building around conflict resolution skills.
Today my tummy is a bit upset so I hope I am not getting a bug. Time will tell!
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Yes Cambodia is dirty but its the same as most Asian big cities. I can cope with it now I am over the first few days and look past it and see really beautiful people. Once you get over the heat, noise and traffic its got a nice feel to it. We've seen how the GIA team live... simply in classic Asian houses with big tiled floors and just enough rooms to get by they all have showers and flushing toilets so that's good! They all rent. Many NGOs are living in mansions which makes talented locals want to work for an NGO becasue they get paid $40 per month working for governement. Its a catch 22.
We've just Tuk tuk'ed from the other side of town where we went to a school for poor kids... oh my gosh they have nothing... no play equipment, no books just a few bits and pieces. Their teachers are locals with no education training at all. A girl from Switzerland actually runs the school and she volunteers with OMF the locals are paid. She speaks fluent Khmai which is not easy and writes it too!
I will have another crack at the blog so you can keep in touch. Thankfully the hotel has an internet but its slow... You can rech us on antoniamvl@yahoo.com I don't have anyone's email address with me so you need to make contact if you want communication.
The falling US dollar and the high cost of fuel is killing these people because they only earn $2.50 per day so the poor just get poorer. Its not as bad as I thought I don't feel unsafe but at night its risky so we are in our rooms by 8.30pm
Tomorrow we are off to visit Hagar International. and Friday the Peace bridges programme.
We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City late Thursday night after having a delay. On board the plane a woman got altitude sickness and lost consciousness so I had to help her she because there was no doctor on board eventually it turned out there was one who cam forward which was good because I thought she had a seizure but it turned out to be altitude illness so we flew lower down and that add 2 hours to the trip The upshot was we were upgraded to first class so she could lay in our seats!! Poor woman landing like that ina foreign country.
First day in HCM we got bearings and did the tourist bits the Cu Chi tunnels etc. Big noisy and inhospitable city with traffic which is one never ending merging of lanes which are for guidance only!! Same in PP. You have to be brave and then take your life in your hand crossing over. We had to laugh because it was scary!! Then that afternoon it rained ad we were up to our axles in the car with water. Its VERY hot but once it rains its bearable.
The bus ride to PP was good once we got on the right bus!They loaded our bags and us on to a different bus so we had to be assertive and say "No- wrong bus" because we paid for the Mekong Express and the bus they wanted to pop us on stopped 100 times on the way to PP and took 12 hours instead of 6! They offloaded us and left us standing in the middle of a busy main road with suitcases... I kid you not!!
Cambodia is friendlier than Vietnam. It's difficult to locate our brearings as the streets are poorly signed. Everyone wants to sell us tuk tuk rides but we smile and say "no walking" Today we braved the whole city in one and laughed our way through the language barriers with our driver. Its good. I am getting accustomed to the "culture ". I find the poverty difficult.
Yesterday we met a teacher from St Ignatius (Sydney) College. They have their high school boys teaching children in a village They are a Jesuit college and they do this to get the boys aware of poverty and sharing wealth and developing cultural competence. Nice idea. The kids teach Cambodian kids English and they have to prepare their lessons.
This afternoon we went to the team from Christian partners in Cambodia which our church sponsors workers to see their work and we talked about the transition model which he was most interested in I have it on my flash drive so we are going to shwo them more on Friday! Our RDNS work may be used here. How cool is that?!
It's elections soon so life is a bit strained for most here. Hun Sen will get in again for sure there is no real 'competetion' but I cannot talk about that now.
I am having trouble with the blog so I will persevere but it may be a problem.
Regards to everyone. We are safe if not hot but enjoying the people the land and the experience. I'll let you know how it all goes. So far so good.
Love Anne & Hugo XX